I’ve recently partnered with an incredibly talented platinum-smith who specializes in restoration. Pictured is an Art Deco mounting that has been well-loved and worn for many decades. The center crown had been undercut by wearing this against a wedding band, so much so that the prongs looked splayed from the side and there was not much to securely hold the diamond in place. The single cut diamonds, set in bezels on the cathedral shoulders, were also compromised. Most had a fair amount of damage. The shank was also heavily worn and in need of attention. As we began the restoration process, the first thing to do was to thoroughly clean the mounting. When working with platinum and diamonds there cannot be a speck of dirt on either the stones or the metal to prevent contamination and the risk of the stones burning due to debris. The next thing to do was to examine the ring to determine exactly what was needed as well as how the restoration was to proceed. The center crown needed to be built up. Both the prongs that sit on top of the diamond as well as the gallery wire were visible from the side of the ring. This setting is known as a box style, subtly square. The shoulders are a series of bezels. Most of these needed to be reinforced and the decision was made to replace the single cut diamonds, as most were damaged, and replace with diamonds with better color and clarity. The shank also needed to be replaced with a new one by measuring the original width as well as its thickness. All of this work was done with pure platinum wire and a laser. Traditionally, platinum work is done with a torch and a flame this so hot that one needs to wear cobalt blue glasses to protect the eyes. It takes a very steady hand and eye to do work with platinum, whether with a torch or laser. Once these modifications were complete, the ring was polished bright. And wow, was the finished ring spectacular. Polishing removes the patina of the ring acquired over time with wearing, but this will patina with time and wear as well. While some prefer this, as it gives more of an antique look, with regular polishing platinum can maintain its shine. It’s really just a matter of preference. If you have a platinum piece of jewelry that’s in need of some reworking, be sure to get in touch as I have the partners to make this happen ever so beautifully.
- Materials: Platinum, Diamonds
- Location: West Hartford, CT
- Location: My ring is stunning! I can’t stop looking at it. Thank you again for all of your hard work. Much appreciated.
